Celebrating 10 years! 2007-2017

Car trouble saga

This all started last week when I took my car to the Audi de gladigotaphdinstead05/13/17
In a past life, I was a mechanic. Do not buy anything made ericcrapton05/13/17
Nope. It's only an estimate for work they didn't yet do. isthisit05/13/17
That did sound like a really steep estimate. But I'd find a greenhorn05/13/17
Sounds like they are fine with it. Also since although I am gladigotaphdinstead05/13/17
Unfortunately you are most likely out of luck. It would be o lolasaurusrex05/13/17
What was the cause of the CEL? Seals cause drips, not CEL's. 2ski05/13/17
You're right, a failed main seal will not trigger a CEL on i majorkong05/14/17
CEL is most likely caused by loss of vacuum and extra air en gladigotaphdinstead05/14/17
LOF- Lube,Oil, Filter. Standard oil change. Not many thing 2ski05/14/17
I agree with 2ski. Might also want to consider hitting your majorkong05/14/17
Dealer service departments are profit centers. Believing tha trollfeeder05/14/17
Stay away from the stealer-ship when it comes to repairs unl persius05/14/17
gladigotaphdinstead (May 13, 2017 - 1:34 pm)

This all started last week when I took my car to the Audi dealership to diagnose a CEL and slow oil leak. At the end of the day I get an email from my service specialist and an e-mailed estimate for$9600, $6100 of which was for a rear main seal replacement for the oil leak and $2500 for a new timing chain, tensioner, (1600) and lower bearings (900).

I immediately freak and we decide to just trade in the damn car and get something more family friendly anyways since we are two months away from our first baby.

I went out and agreed on a brand new 2017 Mazda CX5 that I liked a lot but took a terrible low ball offer on my Audi since it has the CEL on and I believed that despite a kbb fair trade in value of 6600 that with all the work needed I was lucky to get 4000 for it.

Anyways... Not until afterwards I start to question the entire thing, the seal only costs $50 and yes it takes 9-10h of labor to remove the tranny and replace the seal but that would be only $1000 from most shops.

So turns out I was right. I called the dealer back and brought this up. I found out the dealership messed up the estimate on the repairs my Audi needs by about five grand on dealer prices... And really only needs 1400 in crucial immediate repairs. I was ready to take a low ball offer on my car because I thought it was more of a liability than an asset if it needed 10k in work on it. Now I'm not going to take 2500 less than kbb value for it.

So we called and explained the situation and said we want to trade in another car instead. Just so happens we have an old 2007 nitro with 113k miles that has a kbb fair value exactly equal to what they offered for the Audi. Maybe we can actually find a silver lining in this dark cloud if we can get them to just give us full kbb fair trade in value for the nitro.

Also, I don't suppose there is any recourse I can seek against the dealer for the absurd estimate?

Reply Like (0)
ericcrapton (May 13, 2017 - 3:37 pm)

In a past life, I was a mechanic. Do not buy anything made by the Chrysler corporation. Look on carsurvey.org. Chryslers are worse than Kia.
I would find a reputable independent mechanic, get the work it needs done, and then trade it in.

Reply Like (0)
isthisit (May 13, 2017 - 1:43 pm)

Nope.

It's only an estimate for work they didn't yet do.

Reply Like (0)
greenhorn (May 13, 2017 - 1:57 pm)

That did sound like a really steep estimate. But I'd find a good quality independent shop and get a quote for the work. The Audi A4 is a good platform.

Trading in the Nitro will be a better choice for you, hopefully the Mazda dealer will be cool with that.

Reply Like (0)
gladigotaphdinstead (May 13, 2017 - 3:35 pm)

Sounds like they are fine with it. Also since although I am sort of signed on it really isn't finalized yet as I haven't even seen the actual car and they didn't give me copies of any of the contracts I could most likely pull out of the entire sale and they would not do anything since litigation would cost them more than just saying hell with it and letting it go.

I did call an EU car mechanic and he gave me some good ballparks that made sense based on my own research and said the issues were common with the a4 of that year so I think he has done a lot of them.

Reply Like (0)
lolasaurusrex (May 13, 2017 - 2:24 pm)

Unfortunately you are most likely out of luck. It would be one thing if you traded it in for another Audi at the same dealership that gave you the incorrect offer but that is sadly not the case. If I'm reading your post correctly you believe that if you had the repairs done for 1400 then you would have received the difference between the 6600 KBB value and the 4000 you received? If the supposed net loss was 1200, I think you should be able to make that up in giving them more business and trading in the other car. It sucks that you're in this situation but hopefully things work out.

Reply Like (0)
2ski (May 13, 2017 - 5:36 pm)

What was the cause of the CEL? Seals cause drips, not CEL's.

Reply Like (0)
majorkong (May 14, 2017 - 9:21 am)

You're right, a failed main seal will not trigger a CEL on its own. However, the loss of oil can and will cause a CEL, especially in European makes. I had a BMW with a main seal go out once and it triggered CEL for a VANOS failure. I replaced the seal, topped off the oil, cleared the codes and never had a problem again.

Reply Like (0)
gladigotaphdinstead (May 14, 2017 - 1:13 pm)

CEL is most likely caused by loss of vacuum and extra air entering the cylinders. P2279, P2187 are the codes. I thought that was due to a bad pressure control valve at first but seems like it's the leak in the rear seal .

On the same line in the estimate as the rear main seal it also says breather control kit and "LOF" But I'm not sure why the breather control kit around need to be replaced and don't know what LOF is. Anybody?

Reply Like (0)
2ski (May 14, 2017 - 2:31 pm)

LOF- Lube,Oil, Filter. Standard oil change. Not many things to lube on newer cars. If it was a 1950's car, then yes.

Check PCV valve. I'm not familier with Audi but this is usually very easy to DIY.

Of the list of repairs only the 'breather control kit' makes sense with the codes indication an air leak. This leak would be between the MAF sensor and the engine. The rest speaks to the profit center mentioned.

Here is an interesting read:
http://www.blauparts.com/audi/audi_breather_hose/audi_a4_breather_hose_crankcase_hose.shtml

Read the very last paragraph:
"...After repairing the Audi A4 ..."
Discuses your slow oil leak.


Guessing a breather control kid would fix it, and possibly the slow oil leak per the article. $200parts, $3-400 labor.

Reply Like (0)
majorkong (May 14, 2017 - 6:12 pm)

I agree with 2ski. Might also want to consider hitting your MAF with a shot of electronic parts cleaner before you do anything though. Could just be an issue of gunk built up on the sensor and throwing codes as too rich/lean.

Reply Like (0)
trollfeeder (May 14, 2017 - 8:29 am)

Dealer service departments are profit centers. Believing that you deserve blue book trades and inexpensive service is probably not the mindset here. Unloading the Chrysler product instead of the Audi is a sound decision though.

Reply Like (0)
persius (May 14, 2017 - 9:14 am)

Stay away from the stealer-ship when it comes to repairs unless you need to be there because of a warranty. You are guaranteed to get ripped off. Find a good independent mechanic.

I have found German cars to be mostly garbage that generate high repair bills. I would also avoid Chryslers but at least they are cheap to fix.

Reply Like (0)
Post a message in this thread